A lovely walk in the Roya Valley. Discover the Via Ferrata of Tende.
I got up at 8 a.m., had a hearty breakfast and a fresh shower that energized me to start this Monday. After a quick final check of my bag packed the night before, I closed it for the last time that morning, forcing the zipper a bit because the cold water bottle barely fit in, it was so full.
It’s 8:30 a.m., sneakers on, heading to St Roch station. I meet up with Franck, Pat, Remy, and Chris, the one-day athletes. Michi arrives last, and by the looks of him, he had another boozy evening.
At 9 a.m., the Train of Wonders pulls into the station.
First task of the day: find a carriage with few people. Mission failed: all the rail cars are crowded. We are forced to stand in the non-air-conditioned entrance. And so, we are ready for the journey heading to Tende. On the way to this medieval town, we pass along the Paillon Gorges before reaching the Mercantour Park. Through our little window, we dive into wild landscapes featuring typical medieval villages and railway buildings with Niçois architecture. The history of the sites we pass is narrated by an actor. This charming line makes us forget about the poor transport conditions. Drap-Cantaron, Peillon Saint Thècle, Peille, L’Escarène, Touët de l’Escarène, Sospel, Breil sur Roya, Fontan-Saorge, Saint Dalmas de Tende, La Brigue and finally our last stop TENDE: a 1h45 train ride.
In Tende, it’s festive like in all the hinterland villages on August 15th, Assumption Day. Gastronomic, musical, and clothing traditions are honored. Craft stalls have been set up. Farm animals are also present. The smells and sounds transport us into the festive mood.
Second task of the day: rent equipment for the Via Ferrata. On-site, we meet Cyrille, another team member, who immediately directs us to a rental store. For a few euros and a deposit (ID card), we are equipped with the proper Via Ferrata gear.
It’s 12 p.m., our stomachs are starting to rumble, just a few more meters. Oh, a transhumance! After 5 minutes of observation, we continue our journey. Via Rue de France, we climb into the old town then pass under the Clock Tower crossing the cemetery. Before starting the trail that climbs above the village on the west side of St Sauveur rocks, we empty our backpacks of all the culinary goodies it contains to gain strength and vitamins.
With stomachs full, harnesses in place, and helmets on our heads, we are finally ready to play adventurers on the rocky walls of Tende. No instructor accompanies us for our first Via Ferrata but we are quickly reassured because the course is well secured and marked. After 15 minutes of walking, we are in front of a precipice connected by three metal ropes to two opposite walls. Two options are available to us, either cross it to go across or take the escape route.
The group splits into 2: the “Fearless” and the “Escapists”. I choose the side of the “Escapists”. Armed with our digital camera, we capture their courageous crossing. Once attached to the wall on the other side, equipped with rungs, we start our less vertical adventure. Throughout the course, we are connected to a steel cable on the wall by a carabiner, allowing us to progress safely. At each escape, we cross paths with the “Fearless” in full action. It’s definitely worth a souvenir photo. (Their bodies are at 90° and sometimes even at 120°, a wall in front of them, behind them the void. How high it is! Just thinking about it makes me shiver again. A simple tip: you must not be afraid of heights to do Via Ferrata.
The Via Ferrata of Tende consists of three parts: the Chapel Castle, the Heretics’ Cave, and the Crest of St Sauveur. The first part ends with a monkey bridge for the “Escapists” while the other group enjoys the thrill of the zip line (sliding along a cable) Wow! We all meet at the Chapel to share our emotions and quench our thirst. Because it is hot, very hot. The only problem is the lack of water since some forgot to fill their bottles before the ascent. This dry mouth forces us to stop the Circuit of the Counts of Lascaris. But fatigue is also a reason. We return to the village of Tende by a path.
This sporty hike transported us to the past with the remnants of the Medieval Castle of the Counts of Lascaris. We discovered the pleasure of climbing safely. Walls fitted with sealed rungs, ramps, walkways, and bridges—Tibetan bridge, Himalayan bridge, and monkey bridge—zip line, crossings, and vertical passages decorate the circuit of the High Roya Valley. Doing a Via Ferrata provides “vertiginously” memorable emotions. And I can assure you that once you’ve completed a Via Ferrata (even just the first part), you feel stronger and more confident. Because we dared to believe in ourselves, in our abilities.
The village’s fresh water fountain soothes our throats, and the square’s café satisfies our sweet tooth. It’s 5:20 p.m., the last train to Nice enters the station. It will also be very difficult to find a seat for the return (too bad).
From this day, we will remember not to do a Via Ferrata on August 15th (if you plan to travel by train) and to bring water bottles. But we will certainly not retain only the negatives from this adventure, which I highly recommend you try if you’re not afraid of heights. As proof, we have decided to go back next weekend to finish the Circuit of the Counts of Lascaris and complete our photo album. So, I am looking forward to meeting you for a full load of vertiginous emotions!!!
Audrey Bollaro
Information: [https://www.tendemerveilles.com/escalade.asp](https://www.tendemerveilles.com/escalade.asp)