Alexis Luong, chef and manager of the Onaka restaurant in Nice, immerses us in his culinary universe where simplicity blends with excellence. Through an intimate interview, he reveals his journey, inspirations, and aspirations. A look back at the career of a chef who, despite a skyrocketing career, remains deeply attached to authenticity and sharing. Portrait
The soft lighting of Onaka highlights the understated elegance of the place, with a cozy atmosphere accentuated by the golden reflections of the wood-paneled walls. Sitting at a table, Alexis Luong, in his black apron adorned with a discreet logo, waits serenely, attentively observing the details of his restaurant. “Onaka is not just a restaurant, it’s a part of me, but also of my family,” he confides emotionally. His passion: working with sushi. Sometimes, he plays with his hand, gently touching the surface of the table, as if to mark a pause, a moment of reflection.
The journey of a passionate person
Behind this focused gaze, one can see a man for whom cooking is not just a job, but a deep passion. Alexis, born in Paris, begins to talk about his journey with a slight smile, an evident humility. “I didn’t always dream of being a cook,” he confides with a faint smile. Indeed, the 34-year-old could have ended up in accounting.
He then mentions his early experiences. It was mainly his father’s cooking and his Phở soup that immersed him into cooking. His experience began as a delivery driver, then in a supermarket stall and in small kitchens, where improvisation was key. “It is through experimenting, through failing, that I understood that cooking was going to become my language,” he accompanies his words with a hand gesture, as if shaping an invisible ingredient in the air. Resilience thus becomes his motto.
A unique culinary vision
Far from fleeting trends, Alexis advocates for simple cooking but deeply rooted in emotions. “What I seek to convey is a feeling, a memory,” he explains, maintaining an intense and focused gaze. In stark contrast with his early career at Castelnau, he has shaped his style among the best. First at Courchevel and then in the line of Nobu restaurants, where he met his mentor, Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa. His approach, however, remains minimalist but full of depth.
Japanese culture remains a revelation for him. A revelation that made him realize that in his profession, there will always be new culinary codes to learn: “Only hard work pays off. You must constantly be interested in other things to be as impactful as possible.” The art of sushi “is very hard to learn, and it must be earned”! The Japanese culture of sushi is still largely unknown in France. “One must not denature the sushi and should never use sweet sauces,” he concludes, pointing his finger at the table, still smiling.
Onaka, a human adventure
For Alexis, this is not just a restaurant. Onaka is the culmination of several years of work, research, and meetings. Open since July 27, 2022, at 12 Masséna Passage, in Nice, Alexis wanted to create a place where “people feel at home.” “I want Onaka to continue growing but always with the same philosophy: simplicity, sharing, authenticity.”
Everything in this restaurant has been designed to promote sharing. Indeed, from the arrangement of tables to the soft lighting, everything seems to encourage conviviality. Alexis gives a big smile, like a ritual, when he talks about collaboration with his team, which he describes as a true family. Ninety percent of his ingredients come directly from Japan.
For the near future, Alexis envisions opening a gastronomic table of 10 to 12 seats where he would cook directly in front of his customers.
From cooking to national competitions
Alexis’s career is not limited to running his restaurant. He has also brilliantly defended his passion on the grandest stages. Finalist in the 2021 French Sushi Championship (which he won), Alexis remembers this period as a real challenge, both physically and emotionally. “It was an intense adventure, only mishaps came our way,” laughs his wife, Andrea. Alexis, in turn, has a slightly pensive look.
Rigorous training, endless days perfecting his dishes, and the constant pressure of representing his art at the highest level. “Every plate had to be perfect, every move had to count.” His hands, agile and precise, miming cutting movements, illustrate well this perpetual quest for precision. However, the final test was fraught with difficulties for Alexis and his team. Repeated power outages prevented him from cooking his rice properly. Despite these obstacles, Alexis still managed to secure the victory, subsequently giving more visibility to his restaurant.
This performance then propelled him toward the world competition, where he represented France’s colors. “I had never felt so much pressure,” he admits, recalling the 2023 World Sushi Championship final in Tokyo. With, for the first time in the history of this championship, a French top three, Alexis finished third, behind Jérémy and Vincent. A great achievement and unforgettable moments for them. “This competition was very tough. What I lacked was surely the mental preparation,” notes Alexis. “Because in addition to running a restaurant, having a family life, and having to travel across the world, it requires a lot of preparation upstream.” A tight schedule, then, for Alexis, but one that ended quite well.
The unwavering support of his wife
Fortunately for him, he can count on the steadfast help of his wife Andrea, with whom he also has a young son. Between long hours spent in the kitchen and moments of doubt before big events, it’s she who encouraged him never to give up. “She always pushed me to go further, even when I thought it was too much,” he says, looking at her. She accompanied him at every stage, both physically and morally, ensuring he stayed focused and motivated. “Her opinion is the most important in my eyes, even if sometimes it stings,” he recounts with gratitude. For Andrea, a nurse by profession, her husband is a “hardworking and generous cook.” “And I prefer to see him as a cook rather than an accountant,” she jokingly adds.
